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Wednesday, 4 January 2012

I know there are tons of tutorials out there of girls doing their own color and getting fabulous results.  Color is a tricky process though and it's even harder if you don't understand color theory and don't have access to the right tools.  But, if you've been reading my color posts, you should be getting a little bit of information about how best to color your hair.  I'm going to actually show you how I color my hair through pictures.

Remember though, I am a licensed cosmetologist.  I know what works on my hair.  I'm using professional color, so I can't be held liable if you DIY your own hair and something happens!  But I'm always happy to help guide you if it is something you'd like to try.  Just email me!

So let's get started. :)

Tools:
  • Hair color/bleach
  • Rat tail comb
  • Tint bowl
  • Tint brush
  • Foil (pre cut)
  • Old towels
  • Clips
Preparation:
  • Pre cut your foil if you need to.  Cut about 20 pieces or so.
  • Pre measure color, but do not mix yet.
  • Wrap towel or cape around you to protect your clothing.
  • For my personal preference, I like most of the color to be in the front, so I'm going to section my hair right above my ears going horizontally.  Like I'm doing a half ponytail.
  • Then I'll clip back the bottom to get it out of the way.
  • Now, I'll split the top section of my hair into two.  Clip one side.
  • Starting from above my ear and making my way up, I'm going to section out large chunks of hair using my rat tail comb (like doing highlights) and I will color those sections.  
  • Continue in this manner on both sides.


Application:
  • Mix together your color or bleach.  You want the consistency to be sort of thick.  We don't want it dripping all over the place.  It will be easier to apply this way.
  • After sectioning out the chunks you want to color, place a piece of foil behind those pieces, and paint the color on.
  • I place the color on the middle section of my hair, holding the tint brush vertically.  
  • Paint the color down to the ends and if necessary, fold the ends up into the foil.  
  • Now this is important: as you paint closer to the root, you want to go light on the color and really blend it in!  You'll have less of a noticeable line.
  • After you've gotten those strands all colored, fold the foil up on itself to seal in the hair.  No smashing or closing in that foil like a fortress.  Color needs oxygen to process, so just gently fold it enough to get it to stay.
  • Move onto the next sections and then move onto the other side.
  • Try to work as quickly as you can, because if you're using color, you only have about 30 minutes before it's oxidized and won't process anymore.  You'll have to use more color.  Or if you're using bleach, move quick, because you don't want uneven lightness.
Final Steps:
  • Check your color as it processes.  When it gets to the lightness you want, wipe off a bit, and really look at it.  If it looks okay, shampoo and condition.

  • If it needs more time (though no more than 45 minutes!), then allow it to process.
  • Rinse out color, shampoo gently, and thoroughly condition.
Tips:
  • If you're using bleach, it will swell from the heat on your head.  So when you are painting at the top of the foil, leave about an 1/8 of an inch of room.  This will allow the bleach to swell inside the foil and not "boil over" bleeding onto the hair underneath.
  • Try not to have the starting point of the color all at the same spot on your hair.  Unless you want that.  It looks more natural to have different starting points.  For example, I want the color a little closer to my roots near my face as it brightens my complexion.  But in the back, I might start the color 5 inches below the root.
  • If your color turns too orange, brassy, or gold, click here to read my post on toning.

It was hard getting the correct light in the bathroom, so you'll see my new color in true light soon! :)


Hope this helps!  And please email me with any questions you have.  Happy hair days!

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